Thursday, July 2, 2009

A European Mock Meat. Of a Sort. Part 2 (a).

Or, a Sort-of Roman Vegetarian Patty.


Vinegar, Wine, Carrots, Lovage, Mint: some of the components cooked up into patties


This is a more experimental version of Compatible Meat Substitute/Mock Meats based on Joanna Vaught's Veggie Burger Engine.

I like "Veggie Burger Engine" much better that "DIY Veggie Burger Formula," but then, I am steeped in geektitude. :-) Major. Geeque-ti-tude. Call the list of suggested contents and proportions what you will, this is the place that I've been starting.

My goal this time was to address wheat allergies. This recipe is based on several receipts found in Apicius, so it'll be Quite. Roman. in its flavor profile when made to my satisfaction. The primary ingredients I used are listed in Apicius and the burger recipe itself is based on Apicius #31 (A sauce for oysters and shellfish), #124 ({Carrots} another way), #201 (Another gruel -- a receipt that includes chickpeas, barley, and vegetables), and #207 (Beans and chickpeas). The only non-Roman human food item in this recipe would be the oats. According to the texts I consulted (The Natural History of Pompeii and Food in the Ancient World), oats are considered fodder in Rome. The barbarians to the north ate them, but the Romans generally did not.

Roman-inspired Protein Patty/Veggie Burger/Mock Meat:

1.5 Cups cooked barley (1)
1.5 Cups cooked chickpeas
2 cups cooked carrots
3/4 cup oat flour
1/4 cup white wine
1-3 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar (2)
1/4 cup olive oil
1 T of honey (period) or 1/2 T of simple sugar syrup (vegan) (3)
sprig of fresh mint
2 sprigs of fresh lovage
3/4 t of ground cumin
1/2 t of ground pepper

When I mixed this together, it was still very wet. Next time I try this, I might try reducing the liquid involved. Since that was not an option, I added:

1/2 cup chickpea/fava flour
1 t cumin seed
1 t lovage seed
1 t ground pepper
and 1/2 t salt

Formed into patties and popped into a 450 oven.


(1) I don't recall precisely where I found this, but there was an instruction in Apicius to soak the barley overnight. I did so, and I got a much softer barley than I usually get in the rice cooker. I am accustomed to a very chewy product out of the cooker, and a soft product only after boiling in a stew for serious swathes of time. This was just right--a barley that was not so chewy that it seemed underdone, and not so soft that it was like mush.

(2) The vinegar I used was a locally made vinegar rather than a commercial product. Vinegar produced by a factory will have a much higher acetic acid content. This is why the amount is flexible. Furthermore, a white wine vinegar and possibly a malt vinegar would also work well here.

(3) There is a great debate among vegans and those who consider themselves vegans but are not according to the strict definition. Honey, an insect byproduct, is not vegan-it's considered an animal product by many a vegan. Others, who take the view that a bee is not an animal, don't have a problem with honey. I know bees to be insects, and so I do use honey. But then, I am not a vegan. Simple sugar syrup isn't something every period cook had in the kitchen (why waste loaf sugar making a sugar solution when there is honey about?) every day, but your other typical choices for a liquid sugar, agave syrup or maple syrup, are new world in origin.

I'll have to share results tomorrow. They're completed they're cooked and been nibbled at, but it's way past my exhaustion level and I'm off to bed. All I can say for sure at this time is that they did hold together and Miguel-san found them "good, like falafel."

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